Creepy Kyoto
Creepy Kyoto Cycling Route 不気味京都
Overview
With over 1200 years of history, Kyoto has witnessed more than its share of weirdness, violence, and horror.
This route will follow a route that starts near Sanjusangendo Temple and ends in Ohara – and take in a bit of the city’s blood-soaked past.
The first stop is Yogenin (養源院), a small temple not far from Sanjusangendo. It was used by warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the late 1500s as a residence for his concubine. It burned down shortly after being built, and was then rebuilt using lumber from Fushimi Castle, which plays a role in several of the sites on this route.
In September 1600, the recently completed Fushimi Castle - it was just six-years old - was being defended by a force loyal to Tokugawa Ieyasu's Eastern army, led by Torii Mototada. It soon was to become the scene of the death of nearly 2,000 soldiers. Surrounded by some 40,000 of Hideyoshi’s men, the soldiers within the castle were overwhelmed, and all but 10 perished. Mototada, his family, and some 380 soldiers committed ritual suicide as the castle burned, thus soaking the floorboards with blood.
When the castle was dismantled, in 1623, the wood was sent around to other castles and temples in Japan to be reused.
Returning to Yogenin, Hideyoshi had a study there. Look carefully at the ceilings of nearby halls: there are a face, two hands, and a trail of blood.
The next destination is less visually dramatic: it is a historic marker in front of a convenience store. This marks the spot where Sakamoto Ryoma was assassinated at the age of 31. On December 10, 1867, Ryoma - the leader of a rebel movement attempting to overthrow the Tokugawa Shogunate - was killed, perhaps by Imai Nobuo (he confessed) who cut the charismatic leader down with a samurai sword at the Omiya Inn. The inn no longer survives, but there is a marker in front of a convenience store in what is now downtown Kyoto on Kawaramachi Dori.
Ryoma is today worshipped for his purity and enjoys a popular following among all age groups in Japan. (If the marker and convenience store are disappointing, a trip to Fushimi is in order. Shortly before he met his end, a failed attempt on his life took place at the Teradaya Inn, which still exists.)
The next stop is a gate at the Imperial Palace. Not far from the historical marker this was the site of the Kinmon Incident, which occurred at the same time in history as Ryoma's death. Here one can see the marks from bullets that hit or grazed an entrance to the palace.
At the Hamagurimon (gate), a battle took place on August 20, 1864, in what became known as the Kinmon Incident. Samurai from Choshu (present day Yamaguchi Prefecture) attacked the gate, which was guarded by troops loyal to the Emperor. If you look very closely there are nicks said to be from bullets. This incident led to much of downtown Kyoto being torched to the ground. On September 19, the Choshu forces set fire to the city. The fire spread and ultimately burned an area from Marutamachi Dori south to Shichijo, and Teramachi Dori west to Horikawa Dori. The fire burned for two days and destroyed 27,000 homes and buildings, and almost reached Nijo Castle.
Moving west and further back in history, the ride heads to Horikawa Dori to the Ichijo Modoribashi bridge. The Ichijo Modoribashi ("Bridge of Revival") was built in 794 C.E. and remains today in the same location. It was used as an execution ground during Japan's civil war, during the 15th and 16th centuries.
In late 1597, Toyotomi Hideyoshi had twenty-six Catholic missionaries exiled from Kyoto to Nagasaki. Prior to sending them on their way, though, he had their ears sliced off at the bridge.
Another oft-repeated incident also took place here. The severed head of Sen no Rikyu - founder of the Japanese traditional tea ceremony - was displayed at the bridge following his ritual suicide.
It is said the bridge was chosen as the place for executions because of its connection to the afterworld. During the 10th century, just as a well-known scholar’s funeral cortege was crossing the bridge, his son joined the procession. The son had been late for the funeral and, according to the legend, at this moment the corpse of the father came to life for just long enough to bid his son farewell.
The next part of the ride will take in some temples, so will be a bit more attractive, if no less gruesome.
Genkouan (源光庵) is a lovely temple north of Bukkyo University. In its main hall are two windows that open out to a garden of flowering trees and stone lanterns. On the ceiling to the right of the windows is a very clear footprint (again, thanks to planks from Fushimi Castle).
The next stop is nearby Shodenji (正伝寺), also a beautiful temple in northern Kyoto. Within the serenity, though, lurks gore. The building facing the garden was built using lumber from Fushimi Castle. Above the passage on the edge of the garden handprints are clearly visible.
The final stop on the ride is in Ohara, at Hosenin (宝泉院). From Genkoan to Hosenein, it is a 45-minute to one-hour ride, much of it a gradual climb. The village of Ohara and Sanzenin Temple however are worth the ride.
At Hosenin there is path will take you to the temple hall. Next to the entrance is a waterfall. Once inside the hall, on the engawa porch overlooking the garden, you are directly below a sea of blood. Look up.
(For those who have seen enough bloody ceilings and want to skip the ride up to Ohara, one final, centrally located, stop awaits. The start of the most horrific event in Kyoto history - the Onin War - is marked at Goryo Shrine. The Onin War started on 18 January 1467 at Goryo Shrine when two feudal lords, Hatakeyama Masanaga and Hatakeyama Yoshinari, clashed at the shrine. The result was a ten-year war that resulted in the complete destruction of Kyoto and 600,000 dead.)
Getting to the Starting Point
From City Hall, ride east across the river to Kawabata Dori. Turn right and head south until Shichijo Dori. Turn left and head east. Sanjusangendo is up the street on the right across from the Kyoto National Mueum.
Directions
The map below will help. In general, though, staying on larger boulevards will be easier if a bit longer in places.
Total Riding Time
4 hours.
More Information
Yogenin
656 Sanjusangendo Mawaricho Kyoto
Entrance Fee: free
Genkoan
47 Kitatakagaminecho Takagamine Kirta-ku Kyoto; Tel : 075 492 1858
Entrance Fee: 450 yen
Shodenji Temple
72 Kitachinjuan-cho Nishigamo Kita-ku, Kyoto; Tel: 075 491 3259
Entrance Fee: 300 yen
Hosenin
187 Ohara Shorinincho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto; Tel: 075 744 2409
Entrance Fee: 800 yen
Teradaya Inn
263 Minamihama-cho, Fushimi-ku, Kyoto; Tel: 075 622 0243
Hours : 10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. (entry until 3:30p.m.) Closed : Monday
Entrance Fee: 300 yen
Take no Yu Public Bath (close to Kamigamo Shrine)
075 791 0584
Entrance Fee: 420 yen
Map
Creepy Kyoto Cycling Route
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