Kamakura
Kamakura 鎌倉
Overview
Kamakura is one of Japan's most elegant towns, a place full of history, temples, mountains, and beaches.
Kamakura was for a brief period - beginning in 1192 - the political center of Japan. While the Emperors remained in Kyoto, for a century military and political power was centered here (some historians dispute this, arguing that Kamakura ruled only eastern Japan; the rest of Japan was controlled in fact by Kyoto).
By 1200 C.E., it was the fourth largest city in terms of population in the world, larger even than Kyoto.
Today the city is home to 170,000 and is often rated one of the best places to live in Japan.
It is also home to quite a few tourist sites, all of which can be seen on a bicycle.
The city is small enough that, like Nara, it is not necessary to break it into areas to be tackled on separate trips. If however one were to do so, two areas come to mind: close to the beach and northern Kamakura.
Near the beach is the most famous of the sites: the Kamakura Daibutsu (the great buddha). The daibutsu is a bronze statue rendering of the Amida Buddha, and is located at Kotokuin Temple. It is 13 meters (42 feet) tall. Only the statue in Todaiji Temple in Nara is larger. The first statue was cast in 1252 and placed inside a temple building. Fire and typhoons destroyed the statue several times. As a result, in 1495, the Buddha was placed outside, where it remains today.
Nearby is Hasedera Temple. It is part of the Jodo sect, and also has a famous statue. Hasedera Temple's statue of Kannon has eleven heads, and is 9 meters tall (30 feet).
From here it is a short ride to the beach. The Pacific Ocean is never far, and the smell of the ocean and sights on the beach may well lure cyclists away from the temples and statues.
Moving north, to higher ground, there is much to see. Temples, shopping, and a small film museum - Kamakura City Kawakita Film Museum - await.
The main shopping drag outside of the train station is well worth a stroll. A friend from Kyoto, upon finishing a day of sightseeing and shopping on this street, said, "If they spoke with a Kyoto dialect in Kamakura, I'd move here tomorrow."
From here, it is a short ride to Kamakura City Kawakita Film Museum and Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine.
The Kamakura City Kawakita Film Museum is housed in an elegant home. There are film screenings, and exhibits related to the history of film in the area.
Next is Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. The shrine is smack in the center of the city and is an Important Cultural Property.
Not far north of here, in Kita Kamakura, is the lovely Engakuji Temple. Engakuji is one of the two great Zen temples in the east of Japan.
Engakuji was founded in 1282. This was the year after the second attempted invasion by Mongols into Japan. Both failed, and the temple is dedicated to those lost in battle.
It sits in a wooded area and is serene.
In addition, there are several interesting museums listed on the map below: The Modern Museum of Art Kamakura, The Old Pottery Museum Kamakura, Munekata Print Museum, and the Kamakura Museum of Literature. Also of interest - and also on the map below - are Jomyoji Temple, Hokokuji Temple, and Zuisenji Temple.
Image © Dirk Beyer
Getting to the Starting Point
A good place to start is JR Kamakura Station, which is centrally located.
Directions
The map below is handy for those with a smart phone. Otherwise, maps are available at the train station and tourist centers.
Traffic is generally not too bad, though certain times of year witness a big influx of tourists.
Total Riding Time
One day for the sites listed on the map.
Places of Interest
Great Buddha
Kamakura Daibutsu (Great Buddha) is in in Kotokuin Temple.
7:00 to 18:00 (until 17:30 from October to March)
Admission: 200 yen
Hasedera Temple
8:00 to 17:30 (until 17:00 in winter) Admission ends 30 minutes before closing time.
Admission: 300 yen
Kamakura City Kawakita Film Museum
Tuesday-Sunday: 9am-5pm Closed Mondays
Admission: 200 yen
Tsurugaoka Shrine
6:00 to 20:00
Admission: 200 yen (museum)
Tel: 0467 22 0315
Engakuji Temple
8:00 to 17:00 (until 16:00 November to March)
0467 22 0478
Admission: 300 yen
Bike Rental
Kamakura Rental Cycle (near the station's east exit)
Tel: 0467 24 2319
1500 for one day
Map
Kamakura Sites
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View Cycling Kamakura in a larger map