Lake Biwa
Cycling Lake Biwa 琵琶湖一周を自転車で乗る
Overview
Lake Biwa, which is just over a hill from central Kyoto, is Japan's largest lake.
At roughly 230 kilometers in circumference, it is also one of the great rides in Japan.
The four to five million year-old lake is historically associated with, among other things, fresh water pearl cultivation, which began in the 1890s. The industry took off in the early part of the 1900s thanks to Kokichi Mikimoto, who had made his fortune from salt water pearls. Biwa pearls became famous worldwide, and much of that industry was based in the Omihachiman area. Today, however, the industry is but a shadow of its former self. Many of the small harbors were filled in for agricultural use, and the pearl industry has shifted in large part to China.
In addition to its fresh water pearl history, Lake Biwa has great lake vistas, many good roads - in places cycling paths - temples and shrines, several good museums, and a great brewery. There is also serious industry. Some of it is breathtakingly beautiful, in a post-modern sense.
Near Otsu City, however, the ride is surrounded by heavy industry. Keep going. What awaits is worth a bit of ugliness.
Getting to the Starting Point
This ride starts at Kyoto City Hall. The ride to Yamashina goes up and over Sanjo Dori. From that point, it is a wide road that is feeding cars to the expressway; cyclists will head off on a side road to get to the lake. (If possible, consider bagging the bike and riding the JR train from Kyoto Station to Otsu Station. The cycling from there is much more pleasant.)
Directions
From Yamashina, which is just over the hill from Keage and still within the city limits, ride until the Meishin Expressway appears. Cycling is not permitted on this road. Turn left onto local streets, and follow the map below. It is an old, relatively quiet street that wends its way almost to the lake. From that point on, the cycling is mostly good and smooth and easy on the eyes. (Note: it is possible and more direct - though less attractive - to ride straight out Sanjo Dori on Route 1 to Otsu).
The first site is Ishiyama Temple. Ishiyama Temple is part of the Shingon sect and was constructed around 747 C.E. Murasaki Shikibu is thought to have begun writing The Tale of Genji at Ishiyama Temple in August of 1004. As a result, there is a statue in her honor.
Moving north towards Seta, Kusatsu, and Moriyama, the lake will be on your left. There is industry in this area as well.
The Rainbow Bridge affords a great view from the top.
From this point, the ride becomes much more pleasant. Just before the bridge is The Sagawa Museum of Art. It houses works by the painter Hirayama Ikuo, sculptor Sato Churyo, and the ceramic artist Raku Kichizaemon.
Pressing on, the historic town of Omihachiman awaits. It is an old castle town that has been well preserved. It has many beautiful old buildings. Its canals are often used for period film sets. Within Omihachiman are the remains of Azuchi Castle, which warlord Oda Nobunaga built between 1576-1579. The castle however was burnt down following Nobunaga's death. In addition to the walls, there is the Azuchi Castle Archaeology Museum.
Another castle is just up the road: Hikone Castle. Hikone Castle was built in 1622. It is one of the oldest original-construction castles in Japan.
At Nagahama, it is time for a cold, locally made brew. The Nagahama Roman Beer company is close to Nagahama Station, and housed in a wonderful old building. Leaving Nagahama city, riders enter the wildest stretch of the ride.
The route hugs the edge of the lake for long periods. At the hills at the north end of the lake, though, the route takes an easier way around. The views from this end of the lake are fabulous.
For those riding in the summer, there are good beaches and camping up ahead in and around Omi Maiko.
On the way back towards Otsu, and Kyoto, there are two religious buildings worth visiting: Shirahige Shrine and Ukimido.
Also on the back side of the ride is a hot spring resort town, Ogoto.
Total Riding Time
It will take two to three days to do the Lake Biwa loop. Here are some suggestions.
One night, two-day course: A good place to stay would be in the Makino area.
Two nights, three-day course: First night stay in Nagahama, second night stay in Omimaiko area.
Places of Interest
Moving counter clockwise from Otsu, the following sites can be visited or seen:
Ishiyama Temple
1-1-1 Ishiyama Dera, Otsu City, Shiga 520-0861 Telephone 077 537 0013
9:00 to 5:00
Museum of Modern Art, Shiga
1740-1 Seta-Minamiogaya-cho, Otsu-shi, Shiga-ken 520-2122; Telephone: 077 543 2111
9:30 to 17:00, Closed Mondays
Admission: 450 yen
Sagawa Museum of Art
2891 Kitagawa, Mizuho-cho, Moriyama-shi, Shiga 524-0102; Telephone: 077 585 7800
Closed Mondays
Admission: 1000 yen
Azuchi Castle Archaeology Museum
2424 Azuchi-shi, Shiga; Telephone 0748 46 6512
Admission: 500 yen to the Nobunaga no Yakata
Hours: 9 am-5 pm (last entrance 4.30pm)
Hikone Castle
Telephone: 0749 22 2742
8:30 to 17:00
Admission: 500 yen
Nagahama Roman Beer Brewery
14-1 Asahi Machi, Nagahama-shi Shiga Prefecture; Telephone: 0749 63 4300
Hours: 11:30-15:00, 17:00-22:00, closed Tuesdays
Ogoto Hot Spring
Telephone: 077 578 1650
Suggestions
It is a good idea to bring water and snacks as parts of the route are away from shops.
Also, riders will want to be off the road by dark. There is no lighting in places.
Rental
It is possible to rent along the route. In Nagahama (0749-63-2323), Hikone (0749-26-1463), Omi Hachiman (0748-32-8180), and Mano Otsu (077-573-7111) there are rental shops.
Links
Map
Lake Biwa Route
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