Nishijin
Nishijin 西陣
Overview
Nishijin is one of the best-known areas of Kyoto and Japan. For more than 1,000 years, it was the main weaving area in Kyoto, and thus of Japan. The area's fortunes have waxed and waned. During the Onin War (1467 - 1477 C.E.), for example, the entire area was burned to the ground. Today it still has some weaving activity, though because of changes in fashion and the strength of the yen, it is but a shadow of its pre-War self.
Weaving technology was originally brought to Japan from continental Asia prior to the establishment of Heian-kyo, as Kyoto was first known. The area of Nishijin - north of Imadegawa, west of Horikawa, and stretching to roughly the area just east of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine - has served the Imperial family, samurai, the aristocracy, the just plain wealthy, as well as ordinary people. Today there is some weaving activity left, and you can on some narrow streets still hear the clack-clack of hand looms.
It is today mainly an area with many older wooden homes, many surviving weaving companies, a few temples, and lots of narrow streets good for cycling.
The first stop on this ride is the Nishijin Textile Center. This is part museum, part hands-on learning center, and part gift shop.
From there we are going to head to the Kyoto City Archaeological Museum. It is small and certainly not on the level of the museums in Okazaki and elsewhere in the city, but it houses roughly 1,000 articles and is free. Opened in 1976.
Next, you will head into narrow streets to get a feel of the old neighborhood life. As you ride, you will pass Honryuji Temple, which has a distinctive onion-like dome and tiled outer wall. It was founded in 1488 C.E. by Nisshin and is the head of the Hokke Shu Shin-Monryu sect. It was expanded in 1542, suffered damage in the fire of 1653 (and then again in 1788), and rebuilt in 1658.
The next stop is the Orinasukan Handmade Fabrics Museum, which was established as a teaching center. You can learn about dyeing, weaving culture, and industrial arts related to Nishijin. The museum is housed in a fabulous building with inner gardens and tatami rooms.
From here, we head towards one of Kyoto's licensed geisha areas, Kamishichiken. It is the smallest and oldest of the city's geisha areas, and used to serve the wealthy merchants from Nishijin.
More narrow streets are then followed by a ride back along Teranouchi Street, a narrow sloping street that will take you to Horikawa Dori. Along the way are three small interesting temples: Shonenji, or "Neko Dera" which means Cat Temple; Myorenji, in which it is possible to spend the night; and, on the other side of Horikawa, Hokyoji (or "Ningyo Dera," Doll Temple).
The first, Neko Dera, was founded in 1606 and is a small temple just north of Teranouchi. It is called "Neko Dera" because of a story related to the temple's third head priest. One night, after a long day of begging for alms, the priest dragged himself back to the temple. Just as the weary priest passed through the temple gates he was struck dumb by the sight of a beautiful princess in a flowing kimono who was dancing in the moonlight. The shadow cast upon a shoji screen, however, revealed that the princess was in fact the priest's beloved cat, who had turned herself into a princess. The exhausted priest was infuriated at the sight of the frivolous dancing cat and threw it out of the temple. A few nights later, the cat appeared in his dreams and told him: "In several days a samurai will visit the temple. If you treat him kindly, the temple's fortunes will improve." Shortly thereafter, sure enough, a samurai came to the temple, and told the priest that a recently deceased princess had written in her will her desire to be buried in Shonenji. As a result, the temple came under the patronage of the samurai, and thus came to be known as Neko Dera in gratitude to the cat. (The tale is perhaps more compelling than the temple: aside from a spectacular pine tree, it has an industrial feel. If you are in a hurry, you can skip this.)
Myorenji Temple is on the left just before you get to Horikawa. The temple was founded in 1294, but its origins at the current location date from 1587. It is a small neighborhood temple, and it is possible to spend the night for 3500 yen.
The last temple, Hokyoji Temple, is just across Horikawa. The temple is better known as Ningyo Dera as it houses many dolls that were the gift of an empress that had previously been in the Imperial Palace, or Gosho. The dolls are often on display.
Now it is time for a temple of another sort: Funaoka Onsen. This is arguably the most atmospheric public bath in Kyoto. Built in 1923, it has interesting wood carvings on the walls in the (men's) changing room. The bathing room itself consists of several baths, a sauna, and then an outdoor rotenburo bath.
Getting to the Starting Point
Coming from downtown, go west on Oike Dori until you come to Horikawa Dori. Turn right and head north on a street that is separated from Horikawa by a narrow river and park below you. Ride this relatively car-free street north for about 10-15 minutes until you come to Motoseiganji Dori (the last bridge over the small river before you hit Imadegawa; don't worry: if you ride past it just cross and Imadegawa and head back a half block to the Textile Center). Cross Horikawa. The Textile Center is on your left half way up the block.
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| Jofukuji Dori | Orinasukan Handmade Fabrics Museum |
Directions
From the Textile Center (#1), go north, cross Imadegawa and head left (west) to the Archaeological Museum (#2). It is on the right several blocks from Horikawa.
After the Musuem, head back in the direction of Horikawa. At the first small street, turn left and go north. (At this point, the map below will be helpful.) This street winds a bit and will take you, after one left turn, past Honryuji Temple (#3).
At the end of the walled temple, you will come to Jofukuji Dori. Turn right. A half block down on the left is the Orinasukan Handmade Fabrics Museum (#4).
After that, backtrack to Gotsuji Dori, and turn right going west. At Senbon Dori, turn left heading south. Several blocks later you come again to Imadegawa Dori. Go right. A few blocks later, you will come to a corner with a 7-11 on the corner. Cross the street and ride up and into a small street ahead of you. This is Kamishichiken (#5), and the tea houses are further up.
When you reach the end of the street - Kitano Tenmangu Shrine will be in front of you - loop back on the northern street in Kamishichiken. This street has several tea houses and will bring you back to Kamishichiken Dori.
At the corner - park will be on your left - turn left and head up a slight slope. On the right will be a hospital. After that turn into a side street on the right (east). Back in here are several fairly well preserved streets. When you come out on Senbon Dori, you will need to turn left and go up just a tiny bit to Teranouchi Dori. Cross Senbon and head east back into the central part of Nishijin.
After two blocks, turn left. On your left will be Neko Dera (#6). After visiting this quaint temple, head back to Teranouchi, and turn left. About five more minutes on your left will be Myorenji Temple (#7).
The final stop before a well deserved bath is Hokyoji Temple (#8), with its dolls. To get there, go along Teranouchi a very short distance until you arrive at Horikawa Dori. Cross Horikawa and the temple will be on the left of Teranouchi.
Now you are ready to ditch the bike and get naked with a bunch of strangers. Ride north up Horikawa Dori two lights, turn left. You will now be on Kurama Guchi Dori. Ride for about 5 minutes until you come to a Lawsons convenience store on your right at the corner of Funaoka Higashi Dori. Keep going straight. Funaoka Onsen public bath is a bit farther down the street on your left.
Total Riding Time
Three to four hours riding time from the Textile Center and back.
More Information
Nishijin Textile Center
Horikawa-Imadegawa, Minami-iru-Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto
075 451 9231
Entrance Fee: 1,800 yen adults, 1,500 yen students
The Kyoto City Archaeological Museum
Imadegawa-dori Omiya Higashi-iru, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto
075 432-3245
Open: 9 am – 5 pm (last entry 4:30)
Admission: free
Orinasukan Handmade Fabrics Museum
693 Daikoku-cho, Kamidachiuri Agaru, Jofukuji-dori, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto
075 431 0020
Open: 10 am – 4 pm
Admission: free
Shonenji Temple (Neko Dera)
275 Nishi shonan cho, Jofukuji, Ternaouchi, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto
075 441 4519
Open: 10 am – 4 pm
Admission: free
Myorenji Temple
Teranouchi-dori Omiya-higashi-iru, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto
075 451 3527
Open: early morning to 9 pm
Admission: free
Funaoka Onsen (public bath)
82-1 Murasakino, Minami funaoka-cho, Kita Ward, Kyoto
075 441 3735
Open: 3 pm – 1 am
Admission: 420 yen
Map
Nishijin Route
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