The Way of Tea
Kyoto City of Tea 茶道の街京都
Overview
Kyoto is the center of the world of sado, or the way of tea, and most of the main sites related thereto can easily be visited on a bicycle. Home to Omotesenke, Urasenke, Mushakojisenke, multiple tea houses, and the legendary tea purveyor Ippodo, Kyoto is the place where tea is held most dear in Japan.
The three "san-Senke" - Omotesenke, Urasenke and Mushakoji senke - all trace their routes to Sen no Rikyu, the figure who most strongly influenced the way of tea and who spent most of his life in Kyoto. All are based in Kyoto.
The tea ceremony has its roots in the 1400s, during the flowering of Higashiyama Culture with its strong emphasis on wabi-sabi ("beauty in simplicity").
Within central Kyoto, many sites are a bicycle ride away.
The first stop is Iho-an at Kodaiji Temple. The Iho-an tea hut ("Cottage of Lingering Fragrance") is a wonderful tea ceremony room on the grounds of Kodaiji temple.
From here, the next stop is Konchi-in, which is located at Nanzenji Temple. Designed by Kobori Enshu, Konchi-in also houses famous paintings by Kano Tanyu and other great artists.
From here it is a pleasant ride along the Philosophers Walk to Hakusasonso Hashimoto Kansetsu Memorial Museum and Garden. Within the grounds of painter Hashimoto Kansetsu's estate, built in 1916, is Isuitei, a wonderful tea house.
Continuing north, Manshuin Temple is the next tea-related stop. Manshuin is a Tendai temple located near Shugakuin Imperial Villa. It was founded by Dengyo Daishi in the 8th century and on the grounds is a tea house.
Now the route heads west to Daitokuji Temple. Daitokuji was originally a monastery founded in either 1315 or 1319 by the monk Shuho Myocho, and is closely affiliated with Sen no Rikyu. On its 53 hectare grounds are two important tea houses: Kasumidoko-seki tea room and the Sa-an tea house. Moreover, Sen no Rikyu's grave is at the sub-temple Juko-in.
The route now heads south to the mecca of the tea world: Urasenke Chado Research Center. Built in 1979, the center is not particularly attractive from the outside but it is home to the offices of the Urasenke Foundation and Chado Urasenke Tankokai Incorporated Nonprofit Organization, the Chado Research Center and Center Gallery, and the Konnichian Library. There is a gallery of tea implements.
On the narrow street behind the center is a block of attractive Japanese style buildings. One of them is Konnichian, which is an estate that is not open to the public. It is the Vatican of the world of tea.
The next stop is the Raku Museum. Housed in a private home, the collection features many tea implements. It was created in 1978 by Kakunyu (1918-1980), 14th generation tea master, and has a collection of ceramics made by the heads of the Raku family. It is fabulous.
Heading back into central Kyoto, the final stop is Ippodo.
Ippodo is the tea store in Kyoto. It opened in 1717, south of the Imperial Palace. It is the place to buy and drink tea in Kyoto. The cafe inside serves many types of green tea.
Note: Katsura Imperial Villa also is worth a stop for those with time.
Directions
From downtown, first head to Kodaiji Temple, which is south of Maruyama Park.
Total Riding Time
4 hours.
More Information
Kodaiji Temple
526 Shimokawaramachi, Kodaiji, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto TEL: +81-75-561-9966
Entrance Fee: 600 yen
Hakusasonso Hashimoto Kansetsu Memorial Museum
37 Ishizakicho Jodoji, Sakyo-ku Kyoto; Tel : 075 751 0446
Entrance Fee: 800 yen
Manshuin Temple
42 Takenouchi-cho, Ichijo-ji, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto; Tel: 075 781 5010
Entrance Fee: 500 yen
Daitokuji Temple
53 Murasakino Daitokuji-cho, Kita-ku, Kyoto 603-8231; Tel: 075 491 0019
Entrance Fee: 800 yen
Urasenke Foundation
613 Honpojimae-cho, Ogawa Teranouchi agaru, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto 602-8688; Tel: 075 451 5166
Gallery Hours : 10:00 A.M.-4:00 P.M.; Saturdays, 10:00 A.M.-3:00 P.M.
Raku Museum
84 Aburanokôji Nakadachi-uri agaru, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto, 602-0923 Tel: 075 414 0304
Gallery Hours: 10:00 ~ 16:30 (last admission 16:00); closed Mondays and national holidays
Sakura Yu Public Bath (north of Ippodo)
Entrance Fee: 410 yen
Map
The Way of Tea Kyoto Cycling Route
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